Well Pump Pressure Problems: Pressure Tank Bladder Failure

Quick-Diagnosis Table: Symptom vs. Most Likely Cause

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Cause 1: Incorrect Air Pre-Charge Pressure (Start Here)

The bladder tank relies on a precise air charge — typically 2 PSI below the pump cut-in pressure — to function correctly. A pre-charge that is too low or too high causes the pump to short-cycle and mimics a failed bladder.

1. Turn off power to the well pump at the breaker.
2. Open a nearby faucet to relieve water pressure from the system completely.
3. Locate the Schrader valve (air valve) on the top or side of the pressure tank — it looks like a tire valve.
4. Using a standard tire pressure gauge, check the air pressure. No water should come out. If water spits out, skip to Cause 3.
5. Compare the reading to your target: if your pressure switch cut-in is 30 PSI, the tank pre-charge should be 28 PSI.
6. If pressure is low, add air with a bicycle pump or compressor until the correct pre-charge is reached.
7. Restore power and monitor the pump cycle. It should run for at least 1–2 minutes before shutting off.

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Cause 2: Faulty or Misadjusted Pressure Switch

A worn or incorrectly adjusted pressure switch can cause the pump to short-cycle or fail to reach proper cut-out pressure, symptoms that are often mistaken for a tank problem. Inspect and test the switch before replacing the tank.

1. Turn off power to the pump at the breaker.
2. Remove the cover of the pressure switch (usually a square plastic cap on top of a pipe tee near the tank).
3. Inspect the contacts for pitting, burning, or corrosion. Discolored or pitted contacts indicate a failing switch.
4. Check that the switch settings match your system requirements (common settings: 30/50 PSI or 40/60 PSI cut-in/cut-out).
5. If contacts are damaged or settings cannot be restored, replace the pressure switch.
6. Restore power and verify pump cycles normally — running until cut-out pressure is reached, then shutting off.

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Cause 3: Pressure Tank Bladder Failure (Ruptured or Waterlogged)

Pressure tank bladder failure occurs when the internal rubber bladder ruptures, allowing water to fill the entire tank and leaving no air cushion to maintain pressure. This forces the pump to cycle on and off every few seconds, wearing it out rapidly.

1. Turn off power to the pump at the breaker and open a faucet to drain system pressure.
2. Press the Schrader valve pin on the tank. If water — rather than air — streams out, the bladder has ruptured and the tank must be replaced.
3. Shut off the water supply line to the tank using the isolation valve.
4. Drain remaining water from the tank by opening the drain valve or a nearby faucet.
5. Disconnect the tank from the plumbing (typically a threaded union or flange connection).
6. Install a new pressure tank of the same or greater gallon capacity, following the manufacturer’s torque specs for connections.
7. Set the new tank’s pre-charge air pressure to 2 PSI below the pump cut-in setting before connecting to the water supply.
8. Restore water supply and power; verify the pump cycles properly (1–2 minute run times minimum).

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Cause 4: Leaking or Corroded Schrader Valve

The Schrader valve on the pressure tank can corrode, stick open, or develop a slow leak over time, gradually bleeding off the air pre-charge and causing the pump to short-cycle. This is an easy and inexpensive fix before considering tank replacement.

1. With the system pressurized, apply a small amount of soapy water around the Schrader valve.
2. If bubbles form, the valve core is leaking and needs to be replaced.
3. Turn off power to the pump and relieve system pressure completely.
4. Using a valve core removal tool (inexpensive at any auto parts store), unscrew and remove the old valve core.
5. Thread in a new valve core and tighten snugly — do not overtighten.
6. Re-check and adjust the air pre-charge, then restore power and test.

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Cause 5: Pressure Gauge Failure

A stuck or failed pressure gauge gives false readings that make it impossible to correctly diagnose pump and tank problems. Always verify gauge accuracy before making larger repairs.

1. With the system running, tap the gauge face gently — a stuck needle may move if it was mechanically jammed.
2. Compare the gauge reading to a second, known-good gauge connected to another port on the system if available.
3. Turn off power, relieve pressure, and use a wrench to unscrew the gauge from its threaded fitting.
4. Wrap the threads of the new gauge with PTFE (Teflon) tape and thread it in hand-tight, then snug with a wrench — do not overtighten.
5. Restore power and verify the reading is consistent with expected system pressure.

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Cause 6: Worn or Failing Well Pump (Submersible or Jet)

If all tank and switch components check out, the pump itself may be losing output capacity due to a worn impeller, failing motor, or worn pump seals — preventing the system from ever reaching cut-out pressure.

1. Check that the pump is actually running when called: listen for the hum of a submersible motor or watch the amp draw on a clamp meter if accessible.
2. Time how long it takes the pump to move pressure from cut-in to cut-out. Longer than normal times suggest reduced pump output.
3. Inspect the electrical connections at the pressure switch and pump control box for loose or corroded wires.
4. If the pump runs but pressure rises very slowly or not at all, consult a licensed well driller or pump contractor — pulling a submersible pump from a well is not a typical DIY task.

For further guidance on well system maintenance, see the CDC Private Wells resource page, which covers testing, maintenance, and when to call a professional.

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