No Water From Well? Fix Your Well Pump Fast

Quick-Diagnosis Table: Symptom → Most Likely Cause

Cause 1: Tripped Circuit Breaker or Blown Fuse

A power surge, overload, or brief short can trip the dedicated breaker for your well pump, cutting power entirely. This is the first and easiest thing to check whenever you have no water from well.

1. Go to your main electrical panel and locate the breaker labeled “Well Pump” or “Water Pump.”
2. If the breaker is in the middle (tripped) position, switch it fully OFF, then firmly back ON.
3. Check that the breaker holds — if it trips again immediately, do not reset it a third time; this signals a deeper electrical fault (skip to Cause 5).
4. If your system uses fuses instead of breakers, inspect each fuse visually or with a multimeter set to continuity; replace any blown fuses with the identical amperage rating.
5. Restore power and open a faucet to check for water flow within 60 seconds.

Cause 2: Faulty Pressure Switch

The pressure switch tells the pump when to turn on and off; if its contacts burn or corrode, the pump receives no signal to start even when pressure drops. A bad pressure switch is one of the most common reasons for a pump that is completely silent.

1. Locate the pressure switch — it is a small gray or black box mounted on the pipe near the pressure tank, with two wires running to it.
2. Turn off the breaker before touching anything inside the switch cover.
3. Remove the cover and inspect the electrical contacts for obvious burning, pitting, or corrosion.
4. Using a multimeter set to continuity, test across the contact points; no continuity when pressure is low means the switch has failed.
5. If the switch is faulty, note the cut-in/cut-out pressure printed on the label (commonly 30/50 or 40/60 PSI) and replace it with an identical-rated switch.
6. Reconnect wires exactly as they were, replace the cover, restore power, and confirm the pump starts normally.

Cause 3: Loss of Prime (Jet Pumps Only)

Above-ground jet pumps rely on a water-filled suction line to draw water up; if air enters the system — through a cracked line, low water table, or after a repair — the pump loses its prime and can no longer pull water.

1. Locate the priming plug or cap on top of the pump housing — it is usually a brass or plastic plug.
2. Turn the pump OFF at the breaker.
3. Remove the priming plug and slowly pour clean water into the port until water fills to the brim and no more air bubbles appear.
4. Replace the plug firmly, then turn the breaker back on and let the pump run for up to 2 minutes.
5. If the pump reprimes successfully, water will flow within 1–2 minutes; if not, inspect the suction line for cracks or loose fittings that are letting air in.
6. Check the foot valve at the bottom of the suction pipe — a failed foot valve won’t hold prime. Replace if necessary.

Cause 4: Waterlogged or Failed Pressure Tank

A pressure tank contains an air bladder that maintains steady water pressure; when the bladder fails, the tank fills entirely with water, causing the pump to short-cycle or stop delivering pressure altogether.

1. Turn off the well pump breaker and open a faucet to release system pressure.
2. Locate the Schrader (air) valve on the top or side of the pressure tank — it looks like a tire valve.
3. With a tire pressure gauge, check the air charge; it should read 2 PSI below the pump’s cut-in pressure (e.g., 28 PSI for a 30/50 switch). No air reading at all usually means the bladder has ruptured.
4. If the charge is low but not zero, add air with a bicycle pump or compressor until it reaches the correct pre-charge pressure.
5. If water spurts from the Schrader valve when you depress the pin, the internal bladder is ruptured and the tank must be replaced.
6. Replace with a tank of the same or greater gallon rating; consult your local plumbing code for installation requirements.

Cause 5: Failed Pump Motor, Control Box, or Capacitor

If the breaker is fine, the pressure switch tests good, and the pump still won’t run (or hums without moving water), the motor’s start capacitor, control box, or the pump motor itself may have failed.

1. For submersible pumps, locate the control box (usually mounted on the wall near the pressure tank) and inspect it for burn marks, melted wires, or a burning smell.
2. Turn off the breaker and discharge the capacitor inside the control box by briefly shorting its terminals with an insulated screwdriver before touching it — capacitors store lethal charge.
3. Test the capacitor with a multimeter set to capacitance; a reading far outside the value printed on the capacitor label indicates failure.
4. Replace the capacitor with one of the identical microfarad (µF) and voltage rating.
5. If the control box shows heavy burn damage, replace the entire control box matched to your pump’s horsepower and voltage.
6. If replacing the capacitor and control box does not resolve the issue, the submersible pump motor itself has likely failed and pulling the pump from the well is required — this step should be performed by a licensed well contractor.

Cause 6: Low Well Water Level or Dry Well

During drought conditions or after periods of heavy use, the water level in the well can drop below the pump’s intake, causing the pump to run without pulling any water — a condition that can also damage the pump motor through overheating.

1. Turn the pump off immediately if you suspect a dry well to prevent motor damage from running dry.
2. Contact your local water well contractor to have the static water level measured with a well sounder or electric tape — this confirms whether the aquifer is temporarily low or permanently depleted.
3. Wait 1–2 hours, then try the pump briefly; a temporarily low water table may recover after a rest period.
4. If the well is consistently running dry, a contractor can lower the pump (if depth allows) or hydrofracture the well to improve yield.
5. As a last resort, well deepening or drilling a new well may be necessary — consult a licensed well driller for an assessment.
6. Review your well’s driller’s log (often on file with your state geological survey) for the original static and pumping water levels as a baseline comparison.

For authoritative guidance on well maintenance, water levels, and protecting your groundwater supply, visit the U.S. EPA Private Water Wells resource page.

Frequently asked questions