Well Pump Not Working – Troubleshooting & Repair Guide
| Part / Issue | DIY Cost (parts only) | Pro Cost (parts + labor) |
|---|---|---|
| Tripped breaker / wiring fix | $0–$20 | $75–$150 |
| Pressure switch replacement | $15–$40 | $100–$250 |
| Pressure tank replacement | $100–$300 | $300–$600 |
| Submersible pump (shallow well) | $150–$400 | $500–$1,200 |
| Submersible pump (deep well, 100–300 ft) | $200–$600 | $1,000–$2,500 |
| Jet pump replacement | $150–$450 | $400–$1,000 |
Cause 1: Tripped Breaker or Blown Fuse (Check This First)
A power surge, overload, or short circuit can trip the dedicated circuit breaker for your well pump, cutting power entirely. This is the easiest and cheapest fix to check before touching anything else.
- Go to your main electrical panel and locate the breaker labeled “Well Pump” or “Water Pump.”
- If the breaker is in the middle (tripped) position, switch it fully OFF, then firmly back ON.
- If you have a fuse box instead, inspect the well pump fuse for a broken filament or burn marks and replace if needed.
- Turn on a faucet and wait 60 seconds to see if water pressure returns.
- If the breaker trips again immediately, stop — there is a wiring or motor fault that requires a licensed electrician or pump technician.
Cause 2: Faulty Pressure Switch
The pressure switch tells the pump when to turn on and off; corroded contacts or a failed diaphragm inside the switch can make the pump appear completely dead. Pressure switches are inexpensive and straightforward to replace.
- Turn off power to the well pump at the breaker before touching the pressure switch.
- Locate the pressure switch — it is usually mounted on the pressure tank or on the supply pipe near the tank, with an electrical conduit entering it.
- Remove the cover and inspect the contacts for heavy corrosion, burn marks, or pitting.
- Use a multimeter set to continuity: with the system pressure below the cut-in setting, the contacts should be closed (continuity present). No continuity indicates a failed switch.
- Turn the water supply valve off, release pressure from the system, and swap in a new pressure switch of the same pressure rating (e.g., 30/50 PSI or 40/60 PSI).
- Restore power and confirm the pump kicks on when pressure drops below the cut-in point.
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Cause 3: Waterlogged Pressure Tank
A pressure tank contains an air bladder that maintains system pressure; when the bladder fails, the tank fills completely with water (becomes “waterlogged”), causing the pump to short-cycle or fail to build adequate pressure. You may hear the pump clicking on and off rapidly.
- Turn off the pump breaker and open a nearby faucet to release system pressure.
- Find the Schrader valve (like a tire valve) on top of the pressure tank.
- With the system fully depressurized and the pump off, press the valve core — if water sprays out, the bladder is ruptured and the tank must be replaced.
- If only air comes out, check the pre-charge pressure with a tire gauge; it should be 2 PSI below the pump cut-in setting (e.g., 28 PSI for a 30/50 switch). Add air with a bicycle pump if low.
- If the bladder is failed, drain and remove the old tank, install a properly sized replacement, pre-charge to the correct pressure, and reconnect.
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Cause 4: Burned-Out Pump Motor Capacitor
Jet pumps and some submersible pumps use a start or run capacitor to generate the torque needed to start the motor; a failed capacitor causes the pump to hum but not spin, or to not start at all. Capacitors are low-cost and are often overlooked.
- Turn off power at the breaker and allow 5 minutes for the capacitor to discharge before touching it — capacitors can store a dangerous charge.
- On an above-ground jet pump, remove the motor end cover to access the capacitor (a cylindrical component near the motor windings).
- Inspect for bulging, cracking, or leaking electrolyte — any of these indicates failure.
- Use a multimeter with capacitance function (or a dedicated capacitor tester) to verify the capacitor is within its rated microfarad (µF) range; a reading near zero indicates failure.
- Replace with a capacitor of the identical µF and voltage rating. Never substitute a different rating.
- Reassemble, restore power, and test.
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Cause 5: Wiring Fault Between Panel and Pump
Rodents, ground movement, or simple age can damage the wiring from the breaker panel to the pressure switch or down the well to a submersible pump, causing intermittent or complete failure. Damaged wiring is a safety hazard and should be repaired by a qualified electrician.
- Turn off the well pump breaker before inspecting any wiring.
- Visually inspect all accessible wiring from the panel to the pressure switch and pump for chewed insulation, corrosion at terminals, or loose connections.
- Tighten any loose terminal screws at the pressure switch and control box.
- Use a multimeter to verify voltage at the pressure switch terminals (with the breaker on and a helper watching safely): you should read line voltage (typically 240 V for submersible pumps). No voltage means a wiring break between the panel and switch.
- For underground or in-well wiring faults, hire a licensed electrician or well pump contractor — do not attempt to splice buried or submerged wiring yourself.
Understanding Well Pump Replacement Cost and When to Replace
If all the above checks fail to restore operation, the pump motor itself may be seized or burned out. Well pump replacement cost is heavily influenced by pump depth — pulling and replacing a deep submersible pump requires specialized equipment and is almost always a job for a certified well pump contractor.
- Confirm motor failure: with a qualified technician present, a megohmmeter (insulation resistance) test on submersible pump leads will reveal a shorted or open winding.
- Get at least two written quotes from licensed well pump contractors; include the pump, drop pipe, wiring, and any required permits in the scope.
- Check the age of your pump — average submersible pump lifespan is 10–15 years. If yours is near or past that, full replacement is more cost-effective than repair.
- Ask your contractor about upsizing or upgrading to a constant-pressure pump if you experience chronic pressure complaints.
- Review the U.S. EPA Private Wells resource page for guidance on well maintenance standards and water testing after any pump service.
Frequently asked questions
How do I know if my well pump is dead or if it’s something else?
Start with the basics: check for a tripped breaker, verify voltage at the pressure switch with a multimeter, and test the pressure switch for continuity. If you have power to the switch but the pump does not respond, the issue is likely the pump motor, control box, or wiring inside the well. A burned or sulfur-like smell near the pressure tank or control box strongly suggests a failed motor.
Can I replace a well pump myself to save on well pump replacement cost?
Above-ground jet pumps and shallow-well submersible pumps (under about 25 feet) are within reach of a confident DIYer with basic plumbing and electrical skills. Deep submersible pumps require a pump puller or rented well-pulling equipment, safety procedures for working around a well casing, and proper torque on the drop pipe — most homeowners are better off hiring a licensed well contractor for those jobs.
Why does my well pump run but produce no water?
A running pump with no water output usually points to a low water table or dry well, a broken impeller inside the pump, a failed foot valve or check valve allowing water to drain back, or a cracked drop pipe in a submersible installation. Start by checking the water level in the well if accessible. If the well has water, a contractor with a camera scope can inspect the pump and pipe inside the casing.
How long should a well pump last?
Most submersible well pumps last 10–15 years under normal use; jet pumps typically last 10–20 years because they are easier to maintain. Lifespan is shortened by running the pump dry, highly corrosive or sandy water, frequent short-cycling from a failed pressure tank, and undersized wiring that causes voltage drops. Annual checks of pressure tank pre-charge and pressure switch contacts can significantly extend service life.